Seek Shelter Immediately

Photos.

Our bags were picked up Friday evening, so we had only carry-ons to pack Saturday morning. For me, that meant electronics: laptop, Bob's iPad, my camera. We were up early enough to watch our arrival in the port of Honolulu, lovely and peaceful in the soft morning light. After showering, we sat quietly on the deck with our coffee.

The ship's docking activities continued below us, and we watched the ship being refueled from a floating station, with a long boom surrounding the area to contain any possible leak. The morning was peaceful and we were ready to leave our stateroom by the 8:30 a.m. departure time assigned to us.

The emergency alert hit each of our cell phones almost simultaneously:
Extreme alert BALLISTIC MISSILE THREAT INBOUND TO HAWAII. SEEK IMMEDIATE SHELTER. THIS IS NOT A DRILL. Jan. 13, 8:07 AM.
Bob and I immediately had the same thought: that we were in a very vulnerable position, sitting just above a refueling operation. Time for a quick mental Hail Mary. I learned later that Bob had said one too -- the automatic response for Catholics of our generation.

We decided to leave our stateroom immediately and learned that everyone else had received the same alert. The captain announced that the ongoing disembarking process would be suspended until more information was available. His voice was unemotional and confident.

We stood near the gangway with everyone else, and everyone was very calm. I did reflect quietly and thought that our affairs were pretty much in order, so I was not really worried. Perhaps 10 minutes later the captain announced that the alert had been sent in error.

38 minutes after the original message, we received the retraction:
Extreme alert There is no missile threat or danger to the State of Hawaii. Repeat. False alarm. Jan. 13, 8:45 AM.
Later in the day, we learned that the world had reacted in outrage and people in Hawaii and elsewhere had indeed panicked. An airport employee told us the situation there had been somewhat chaotic after the initial alert.

As we reflect on the incident 48 hours later, we realize that there is really nowhere to go in Honolulu, where population is dense and the entire city seems overbuilt. I hope this incident results in a review of alert procedures all over the country. Apparently someone "pressed the wrong button" -- actually, I think this was a dropdown menu choice, involving the use of a non-drill template. Who has the authority to send people into a panic like this? Surely there should be a strict protocol and better controls, not only in Hawaii but possibly in other states as well. Maybe this is is yet another wake-up call.

January 31 news story.  This article summarizes what I suspected. The false alert seems to have been a combination of sloppy protocol, confusing procedures subject to individual interpretation, problem employees and, most important, weak and ineffective management.

Last Day on Kauai

Photos.

Friday was our last full day on the Pride of America and preparations were already being made for the next onslaught of passengers. Sales in the gift shop; instructions for tagging bags and getting off efficiently the next morning.

Some got off the ship for a last time but we didn't. I felt better and went for a morning swim, where my only companion after 15 minutes or so was a little girl of about nine who loved the water and followed my lead swimming back and forth -- couldn't really been called lap swimming in such a small pool. The water was cool, not cold as it had been earlier in the week. Very refreshing.

We  sailed in mid-afternoon, along the beautiful shore from Nawihili to Hanalei Bay. Humpback whales appeared periodically in the choppy waves, and while I missed my last chance to capture a good picture, I enjoyed the view.

Sunset, our last in Hawaii, was breathtaking. It was a great day.

Kalapaki Beach, Kaui

Photos.

Thursday was a hot day, and the sun’s rays felt good. I’d had the shivers for a few days so I was particularly happy to leave the ship without a jacket.

Kalapaki Beach

We took the cruise ship’s trolley, driven by a woman as blonde as a native Minnesotan, to what was labeled as a “shopping center”, and I guess it was – for cruise ship passengers. Lots of colorful clothing, none of it made in Hawaii. Bob bought a baseball cap to supplement the one he had forgotten in our stateroom.

We crossed the busy highway – where drivers actually stop at crosswalks – and walked over to Kalapaki Beach where I had photographed surfers from the ship a little earlier. Duke’s beckoned, but we walked up the hill through the Marriott property first. Lovely buildings and grounds with wonderful landscaping and a number of upscale shops.

Time for a drink (Pinot Grigio for me, skinny margarita for Bob) at Duke’s, where we sat at the bar with two pleasant women from San Diego. Peggy and Heidi were both football fans who had an interest in the Vikings-Saints game on Sunday. Both have a Minnesota connection: Peggy lived somewhere in Minnesota as a young child and Heidi has an online MA degree in Education from Concordia.

Back to the ship for cocktails on our favorite Deck 11.

Kona, Hawaii

Photos.

After whimpering that I just couldn’t make it to shore, I put on my rarely used big girl face and pulled  myself together. Because of the port of Kailua-Kona itself is too small to dock a large ship, we had to get to shore by tender. By mid-morning, tickets for the tender boats were no longer required and we simply got on a boat and pulled away from shore toward the port.

View from the street, Kona

The ride was short and pleasant. There are lots of shops, restaurants and bars only steps from the dock, including several ABC stores, where I restocked my supply of cold medicine. The air was hot and humid, but not oppressive. The scene felt like a movie set rather than a “real” place, with all the tropical colors and nautical themed goods on display.

Another day, it would have been fun to explore the little streets farther away from the water, but we settled on drinks and an appetizer at a breezy oceanside Fish Hopper. Altogether enjoyable.

Same Old Leopard

Photos.

Last Thursday, we sat on the bus beside a woman who had a terrible coug ah. She looked so ill that she couldn't possibly have recognized herself in a mirror. While I was at least somewhat sympathetic, knowing that she and her husband had paid plenty for this three-day tour of Oahu, I was also a little angry, because I was afraid of contracting the same ailment. Sure enough, I began to feel sick at Pearl Harbor on Friday. I thought about the many days I used to miss work because of colds, and more days when I showed up, spreading germs to co-workers. I also wondered about military personnel on deployment. I suppose you have to show up, no matter how you feel.

I felt progressively worse through Wednesday, staying upright with Dayquil. I was so sick that I swam only once and hardly did a damn thing all day. Port tours were out of the question. Two days I didn’t even make if off the ship. I’m sure I spread the virus to other passengers, but not to Bob, who has an immune system that should be studied by immunologists or whoever does that kind of work.

I thought about other trips and places all over North America and Europe I have fallen ill with one thing or other. The list is so long you’d thing I spend my life on the road. Fortunately, the cold began to lift during the night, and by 4:00 a.m. I felt pretty good and I am jubilant! No need to “make arrangements” this time.

Hilo, Hawaii

Photos.

Well, I spent the first part of the day wishing I could have stayed in bed and, from early evening on, waiting to go to bed. I coughed and sneezed all day so any excursion, even going the short distance into Hilo, was out of the question. Nevertheless, the day was pleasant and my husband didn’t push me overboard, as I must have been tempted to do under similar circumstances.

Nippon Maru

We went to the 12^th deck to watch the Nippon Maru, a former Japanese training vessel now a museum, is visiting the islands to celebrate 150 years of Japanese presence in Hawaii. So, a baby born in 1868 would have been about 73 by the time of the attack on Pearl Harbor, and yet these people – and, I guess, their children and grandchildren – were interned during WWII. It's all so sad.

We skipped lunch and took a break in our stateroom, where the bed seemed less inviting in the midday sunshine. We sat on the balcony and watched the work in this busy port. We saw several dozen new trucks being driven away by men who arrived by the vanful and immediately boarded one of the trucks. We also enjoyed the activity around the sailing ship Martin Sheen. The actor is a supporter of many environmental causes, including this one, and the ship is named after him. I imagined (for a short time) that Martin Sheen was in the dinghy going to shore, but quickly saw that the older man in the boat was not he.

By late afternoon, we found ourselves once again in the pleasant space on the 11^th deck, outside the Aloha Café. Instead of afternoon tea, which I really needed, I had  Johnnie Walker Black, and the cold symptoms subsided for several hours. The Beaupre Aerial hat with the Skyjack logo on the side was, not for the first time, a good conversation starter. We met Ron and Tracy from Fergus, Ontario, not too far from Stratford, which we know well.  Very pleasant company.

We left port in the early evening. The ship rocked gently all night. I woke up Wednesday morning anchored off the port of Kona, feeling a letter better.

Paia, Maui

Photos.

Golden retriever and her master

My cold gets worse every day so an all-day excursion was out of the question. We decided to take a cab to Paia, where the driver dropped us off at Baldwin Beach Park. I kind of wished I'd brought my suit. However, the waves were full of sand and we had the most fun watching a golden retriever play with her master.

We walked into town. By then it was getting kind of hot (but nothing like Mexico or the Caribbean), so we took the cab driver's advice and went to Charley's, Willie Nelson's "favorite spot on Maui". Pretty good local beer. We ordered the salmon cake appetizer, which was perhaps a little hot, especially for Bob.

I booked an Uber for the ride back to the ship. The driver, Philippe, is the son of a French father and African American mother. He grew up in Orlando and speaks perfect French -- or, at least it was perfect for our brief conversation in French. I was stupid, though, and booked Uber Select, so ended up paying more for the ride than I should have. No matter. We're on vacation.

Swam in the surprisingly chilly and refreshing pool and spent the rest of the afternoon on the 11th deck in the stern of the ship. Cocktails (scotch for Bob, bourbon for me) were delicious.

We left port at 6:00 p.m., as scheduled. By then, the air had chilled and we returned to our stateroom fairly early. The sound of waves and the ship's engines are a lullaby to me, so I slept well.

Maui: First Port of Call

Photos.

View from our deck

We were both toured out by the time we got up on Sunday morning, so we decided to stay on the ship for the day while others trudged out on one of several “sponsored” tours or simply to explore on their own.

The Pride of America is much like the Norwegian Pearl, a ship we cruised on twice before. Despite its recent refurbishing, it is perhaps a little dated and not quite up to the standard one might expect. Passengers are of all ages, and the over-60 crowd is well represented. Lots of canes, some walkers, a few motorized carts and wheelchairs.

We enjoyed watching the Saints vs. Carolina game in the Yukon saloon. The Vikings will be facing New Orleans next Sunday, January 14, the day we get home.

While we haven’t really seen Maui yet, we did love walking the deck in the sunshine, and the views are spectacular.

Pride of America

Photos.

Boarding the Pride of America was easy and trouble free. Our stateroom, 10588, was ready and small but comfortable. The balcony gave us a great view of the Port of Honolulu, but by then I was simply too exhausted to take even one picture.

We sailed out of port in the dark at about 7:00 p.m. The city seemed very long and large as it receded from view. A few hours later, I couldn’t wait to get to bed as I had caught a cold from a very sick bus inmate who sat beside us for two days. Bob, of course, was cheery, healthy and much fresher than I.

I slept well.

Views of the Shore

Photos.

Saturday morning was an early out, and the bus was on the road shortly after 7:30. By then, I was a little weary of touring and my back ached from being squished on the bus. Fortunately, we arrived early enough to sit on the right side of the bus, so my drive-by photos were a little more interesting.  After missing the North Shore, I was happy to see surfers way below in Hanauma Bay, enjoying the lovely cool morning.

As always, I looked for migrating whales, but they are either not there or else I’m missing them.

Byodo-In TempleThe drive through Valley of the Temples Park was actually very cheerful. Families were out visiting the dead and the atmosphere was almost celebratory, even though rain was falling in occasional big bursts.

I opted not to enter Byodo-In Temple, since we had only about 20 minutes before boarding time. Instead, I walked around the little pond in front of the temple, and was surprised by big turtles and huge bullfrogs frolicking in a kind of moat on the side of the road. Altogether different, strangely soothing.

Kualoa Ranch
The advertised highlight of the day was Kualoa Ranch, the 4,000-acre property used for movie and TV sets. By this time, I really was toured out and none too enthusiastic about jumping on the old schoolbus, painted green, with yellow paint showing through on much of the

We toured the vast property of mostly undeveloped land, very rare on Oahu. We saw the sites of many movies like Jurassic Park, Jumangi, King Kong. We stopped at a large bunker, built in 1943, used in the filming of Pearl Harbor, among other war movies. Interesting enough for me to want to see some the movies and TV shows mentioned.

It was all too much, though, and too long. After a pretty good sandwich box lunch, we were corralled for an educational presentation that included an introduction to hula dancing, my personal favorite. Bob –a perpetual self-proclaimed non-joiner -- slinked to the back of the pack and masterminded our early exit from the required activity. This is not his first rodeo: we have made similar escapes from Italian churches and French chateaux. Bob is not one to be swayed by peer pressure.

Finally, we left for the Port of Honolulu. I didn’t get out of the bus for the last photo op near the old Royal Palace, and I missed a shot of the very modern Hawaii State Capitol. No matter. Time to cruise.

Pearl Harbor Day

Photos.

We woke bright and early and were on the bus by 7:15 for our WWII remembrance day.

We wove through morning rush hour traffic to the Punchbowl, the common name for the National Cemetery of the Pacific. Bus traffic cannot stop, so it was a drive-through, but I think this would be a place to revisit. It was quiet early in the morning, and the occasional grave was decorated. The famous WWII war correspondent Ernie Pyle is buried here.

Our ride into Pearl Harbor seemed almost ordinary, with no advance hint of the very emotional experience that would follow.

USS Missouri

The https://www.ussmissouri.org/USS Missouri, the battleship where the Japanese surrender took place on September 2, 1945, is polished and proudly shown off by young US Navy tour guides.

The ship was finished in 1944 and commissioned the same year, christened by Margaret Truman, daughter of then Senator, later President,Truman.  The guns are big and the ship seems indestructible, even today. The famous picture of the surrender in Tokyo Harbor is prominently displayed – men of all ages, Japanese and allied. Senator John McCain’s grandfather, Admiral John Sidney McCain, is in the picture. He died a few days later, after returning to the United states.

Pacific Aviation Museum

I may have visited 10 or 20 too many aviation museums. The Pacific Aviation Museum seemed to be well filled with expected planes and other artifacts. My favorite was the poster of WWII aviatrix whose name I'll have to add later when I review the photos.

We had lunch in a canteen-like room. For us, a shared grilled cheese and fries, along with a large glass of Diet Pepsi. We rarely have soft drinks but we made an exception. We needed the fluids and caffeine.

Arizona Memorial

Entrance to the Arizona Memorial is unassuming. The first impression is of a peaceful, contemplative place, with the Missouri and Arizona Memorial visible across the bay. We chose not to visit the Bowfin Submarine, electing instead to sit quietly and absorb the significance of December 7, 1941, to the people of that time and the entire world since.

We went through the museum and saw some of the famous film clips of the bombing of Pearl Harbor. Finally, it was time to be herded into the pre-visit movie. Terrible and awe inspiring.

We crossed to the memorial shortly after the movie ended. Most people were quiet and reverent. The space itself is open and very white, and the group inched through from one end to the other and back. The Arizona, with almost 1,000 men still entombed below, lies under the memorial. The famous drop of oil spreads out in the water in rainbow colored circles.

I thought back to the D-Day sites in Normandy, which we visited over a decade ago. That day was truly solemn, and the French are more adamant than Americans about enforcing silence. Still, most visitors were quiet and reverent, though many people snapped pictures without apparent reflection.

We wondered about the feelings of Japanese tourists who flock to the Pearl Harbor museums and memorials, and I felt happy that the artifacts are displayed as history, without flagrant bias.

The personal stories told through the exhibits ensure that the events of 76 years ago will remain immediate and personal. The comforting words of the Hail Mary filled my mind, as did the Catholic hymn:

Hail, Queen of Heaven, the Ocean Star

Guide of the wanderer, here below

Thrown on life's surge, we claim they care

Save us from peril, and from woe.

Mother of Christ, Star of the Sea

Pray for the wanderer, pray for me.

Oahu Tour

Photos.

I was really looking forward to seeing the surfers on Oahu's famous North Shore, so I was disappointed when the bus driver said that the bus used to stop but someone would always get wet (or worse) by getting too close to the waves. Instead, it was a drive-by, and we were on the wrong side of the bus. And that was just my own fault. I knew the direction of the tour and wasn't smart enough to get us on the side along the shore. Oh well.

Dole Plantation
Our first stop was the Dole Plantation.  I learned mostly that there are many different varieties of pineapple, and listened to a long explanation about how to plant a new pineapple. Seems very labor intensive. Cut off a tip and get it rooted before planting manually in the ground. Whew.

Polynesian Cultural Center

Show at the Polynesian Cultural center

I really felt deflated as we walked into the grounds of the Polynesian Cultural Center.  It looked like a theme park --  not what I expected. Leo, our tour guide, pretty much left us on our own. Heat and unremitting sun. Seemed like the worst of Hawaii.

Turned out, the day was better than anticipated. We sat in the Welcome Center, an open breezeway with a few sculptures and artifacts, as well as the Polynesian Football Hall of Fame. Couldn’t find a Minnesota Viking in the bunch, but the next day I learned about new inductee Marcus Mariota, quarterback for the Tennessee Titans.

There were a couple of shows, one of them a Maori presentation that I found interesting, especially as I listened to four-part harmonies that reminded me of African arrangements. Maybe Tanzanian. I’ll have to check them out.

The shows looked “politically incorrect” and a little offensive to this critical Minnesotan but maybe Hawaii is different. “Hawaiian Journey” in the amphitheater seemed to be powered by old technology. Later, we sat for an hour in the blistering sun waiting for and watching a kind of boat parade with big canoes, each populated by people from different Polynesian and Hawaiian peoples. Fun but simply too hot.

We passed on the last two displays (Tonga and Tahiti) and instead opted for a bottle of water in the cool Welcome Center and a coffee break in the Polynesian Bakery’s outdoor space. The coffee and rolls (coconut for me, cinnamon for Bob) were delicious.

It was a long ride back to the Marriott in rush hour traffic after a day that may be more interesting to remember than it was to experience. We were exhausted and had a shrimp cocktail from the ABC convenience store in in our room. Delicious and refreshing.

Aloha

Photos.

They really do say "aloha". Everyone does. I'll have to get out of the habit when I get home.

After  15 minutes or so outside the airport, our VIP shuttle driver loaded us onto the bus for our transfer to the hotel. We still had several hours of daylight left so we could enjoy the beauty of the city, with Diamond Head visible almost everywhere and, finally, Waikiki Beach -- "as seen on TV": surfers, swimmers, people playing on the sand and in the water.

We went past Ala Moana, "the world's largest outdoor shopping center", famous, I guess. Apparently everyone has heard of Ala Moana, except Bob and me. Felt like Rodeo Drive (also "as seen on TV", for me at least) or the area around Piazza di Spagna in Rome.

We had no energy left for evening activities so we sat on our 23rd floor balcony overlooking Waikiki, enjoying each other's company and that of Johnny Walker.

Day on a Plane

The long dreaded flight was really not so bad at all. Much better, in fact, than overnights to Europe when we had to change planes after a layover in Amsterdam.

MSP wasn't very busy when we arrived shortly after 9:00 a.m. The gate was another matter, packed with fellow travelers to Honolulu. Several families with kids made us wonder about the noise level onboard, but all the babies were perfect and the children were cheerful and well behaved.

My efforts to upgrade to "comfort plus" had been unsuccessful and we were stuffed into two seats on the port side of the Airbus 330-300, an efficient and well equipped plane. The time passed fairly quickly, beginning with welcome hot towels and beverage service. Unlike many, I am quite happy with airline food. This flight, we shared a fruit and cheese plate and turkey sandwich for lunch and, toward the end of the flight, we had flatbread margarita pizza -- it was a little tough but fine.

The descent into Honolulu was quite lovely, as the sun began its descent into the Pacific Ocean. A Norwegian Cruise Line representative gate met us with leis at the baggage check, and apologized for our short wait in the comfortable park-like space outside the airport. The apology was unnecessary as the decompression time was welcome.